The end of the summer and the beginning of the training

Beast makerFrom a climber’s point of view, autumn is the best season – the rocks are dry, it’s not too hot, we have satisfied our desire to swim in the sea and watch the stars and now we can focus on hard projects. Falling yellow leaves and the shorter days remind of the approaching unwanted winter, but while there is still sun, everything is fine. But there comes a moment when you wake up, look out the window and you see the snow – this cold, white thing that lovers of winter sports have prayed all summer… Yes, it’s true that it’s beautiful and white when you look outside, sitting next to the radiator, trying not to think about what to wear in order to stay dry, but it is not suitable for climbing outdoor. And at this moment you realized  that you will not be able to climb on rocks so often, that you will have to remember the “super-good” beta for the crux till next year and … you have to go take the quickdraws in the snow.

This is the negative side of the winter. But there is another point of view, and it is that winter is the time when we can take on hard training sessions and next season we are in even better shape. About the types of workouts there are so many written materials, systems, programs that we will have to read the whole winter to read them all. We need to know a few things. The most important is that there is no such thing as “too much power”. We must not forget that the technique is just an elegant use of strength. Another important thing is persistence. Regardless of what kind of training system we will come up with, it is important to just follow it. And the third thing that is good to remember is that we have to keep ourselves from injuries. There is also a lot to read on this topic, but the main thing is finding a good  warm-up for our workouts.

The other thing we have in the winter is the thick clothes, watching the weather forecast, waiting the sunny and quiet days and… a nice red wine, of course!

The climber’s WAY OF LIVING

Autumn

With the coming of autumn, except the cold nights, the yellow leaves and the smell of walnuts, there is also the time for “hard” projects. Еvery climber associates them with difficult movements, a lot of rope hanging, pain in all muscles, scrubbing the skin of the fingers to blood, a lot of anger… And all this is not always rewarded with the successful climbing of the dream project. And even in the cases when the route is already sent, you immediately begin with a new one, which is not easier at all. The joy of success is evanescent, compared to the evenings when you lie in your sleeping bag and remind yourself of every movement, every hold, every breath. Еach morning when you wake up and realize you’ve dreamed your project again, you’re happier and more excited to climb to death on the rocks. Actually during this process you are much happier than when you did the project. And… right now… you need a new one!

“The mystique of rock climbing is climbing; you get to the top of a rock glad it’s over but really wish it would go on forever. The justification of climbing is climbing, like the justification of poetry is writing; you don’t conquer anything except things in yourself…. There is no possible reason for climbing except the climbing itself; it is a self-communication.” —Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi⠀

Pocket (on) desire

Perseus knee pad with additional pocket“Life is all memory, except for the one present moment that goes by you so quickly you hardly catch it going.” Tennessee Williams, “A street car named Desire”.

Unless this present moment leaves a slow-moving trace, traceable trace in the form of a dark purple lividity on your otherwise perfect thigh.

The Perseus knee pad now can be ordered with an additional pocket, where to put a piece of neoprene. This way the knee pad protect your skin even in the most painfull knee bars.

Silicone against slippage

Danaë knee pad with silicone dotesSilicone enters more and more in our everyday life – cosmetic products, plastic surgery, repairs, probably in a lot of foodstuffs…

The silicone founds application in Go Clinbing knee pads, in particular in Danaë model. The silicone dotes, placed on the inside of the knee pad, have very good grip on the clothing or the skin and prevent the ripping off. In this way, the knee pad remains in place all the time, while climbing. You can rely on it to be right where it should be when you need to use it!

Paranoia

Paranoia 8bParanoia is the name of a route located on one of the most popular spot for sport climbing in Bulgaria –  Small cave, Vratsa. It goes through the most overhanging part of the sector. The crux is in the roof, followed by a very good no hand rest with a knee bar and the second crux comes as a reward. It is a slightly overhanging slab with risky movements where it is not surprising to fall. The grade is 8b.

I first tried Paranoia in the spring of 2012. Some friends climbing Pranoia and I decidet to try it with them. I couldn’t do their variants to the crux in the roof, and I was forced to find my way to use the holds with a lot of knee bars. In the process of climbing I found that the knee pads I have aren’t the best weapon. The first thing that hindered me was that they were very difficult to put up and I realized that I spent more time putting knee pads than climbing. This gave me a motive to think of a model of a knee pad that can be easily put on and pull off. So the first modifisation of Danaë knee bar pad appeared. Then I realized that for a very key knee bar, just in the middle of the roof, I needed a knee pad that I could put as close as possible to the knee. Those, that I have did not working – either they stood too high, or dropped, or were very thick and trubled the knee bar. It was time for Perseus knee bar pad to come on the scene. Unfortunately, all of these improvements were not enough at all, and I kept falling. Crunches with weight, pull-ups, climbing the route to unconsciousness, regardless of the conditions… So I spend next four years like that. Mentally I couldn’t sustain to fall almost every time on the same move, and I stoped climbing Paranoia.

This spring I found myself again at the Little cave, and I decided to check if Paranoia’s movements had become easier. At first I did not see any difference, some things I had forgotten, I had lost the sense of movement, but soon I began to get used to it. I did a few good attempt and I motivated again. What comes around, goes around and alas where I fell, I will fall again. That was the situation at one point. After a steady siege, I did the roof. The test after, was really very good, but I fell on the second crux. Paranoia remained a project. The next day I was not satisfied with climbing, and I decided I was tired. On the third day, after the warm-up I decided to try again, without expectations, just to see how many moves I can do. And I did it! I climb the roof and while I has resting, I realized, that I couldn’t affort to fall again from the second crux.

I do not think the four years in which I have mostly climbed Paranoia, are lost time. They’ve taught me a lot of things, I’ve done a lot of improvements on the knee pads, new models have come up.

Thanks to Sava Chapanov for the photos and to Joanna Ivanova for the video!

More colorful Danaë knee pad

For the new season the Danaë become more colorful. There is a lot color combination and we have troubles to choose.

In the photos below you can see all combination. If you have favorite, please write a comment!

Acrisius knee pad is getting even better

Knee pad Go Climbing, Acrisius modelOnce I used the Acrisius knee bar pad, it seemed to me that I could make it even better – lighter, most durable, easier to to put on and better fitting on the leg. In the new improved version of Acrisius, the bands with the buckles that serve to fix the knee pad to the leg are replaced with elastic and velcro. This way you dont feel the rigid strip on the back of the knee. The elastic is soft and does not fell when moving. The fixing of the knee bar pad is much more precise.

Now you only have to find the best knee bars in your new project!

Update for Acrisius knee pad

The pocket of Acrisius modelNow the knee pad Acrisius is better! On the inside, under the rubber, there is a pocket in which a neoprene can be puted. The neoprene is cut so that it fits exactly without blowing the knee pad and without being smaller and having empty space. In this way the knee pad becomes much thicker and can also be used for painful knee bars. By removing the neoprene piece, Acrisius again becomes thin and precise, very suitable for technical knee bars. So the Acrisius model becomes quite multipurpose and can serve faithfully to every climber. All you have to do is give him a chance to show up!

New rubber for the knee pad Go Climbing

Leonidio, Twin cavesAfter a lot of tests at various crags in Bulgaria and Greece, the new rubber Vibram, which we use for шге knee pad Go Climbing, proved their qualities. The new rubber has several advantages over that which we have worked until now. It is a little thinner than the old one, making a kneebar much more precisely. With a thin rubber the sensitivity is increased so that you can feel if the knee is exactly on the desired crimp. Also, the new rubber is thick enough so that almost completely eliminates pain. The knee bar pad Go Climbing with the new Vibram rubber are specifically for those climbers who ride on his precision and thrust on his technique. This rubber has a better friction that the previous. This way you can found a perfect kneebars and even no-hand rests in places where it looks unbelievable.

More about knee bar pads Go Climbing, and for the various models, you can find here.

We can only wish you sunny days, challenging projects and impressive climb.

Warm and sunny Greece in December

Kiparissi, Watermill sectorBlue sea, whitewashed houses with blue covers, red rocks, oranges and eternal summer – this is our idea of Greece. But when you go in December, it is possible only to dream about it and is well that the downjacket and the gloves are a permanent part of your backpack.

Our destination was Leonidio – small village at the sea coast, at 1000 km from Sofia, for which we wouldn’t  know anything if it wasn’t  surrounded by a spectacular red-orange rocks with numerous tufas. A group of Greek and German climbers begin to develop the site in 2012. Light upon in paradise untouched rocks, with enormous potential, they work hard and many sectors and routes appear soon. They organized climbing meeting, make a site and guidebook. “The drillers” find new and new sectors, clean, drill, work hard and in 2016 there is over 950 route, divided into 50 sectors. Like any large and well-known crag, and here you can find a “climbing” bar – a place for a beer after climbing, for meetings, for talking, for listening music. The bar is very well combined with a shop where you can find the basics of the equipment – chalk, quickdraw, harnesses… You can eat, looking the guidebook and seeking for a suitable sector for the next day. The bar owners  – cooperative Panjika, have tried to make a very nice and detailed guidebook with good explanations of how to get to the sectors and with nice pics.

Climbing… The climbing is lovely – bright red rock, like on Mars, “tufas”, pockets, 50-meter routes… The sectors are all facing – clean south for not so warm Greece, southwest, southeast, and when it is really hot, you will find the coolness of the northern cliffs. You can find routes have for every taste – long, short, with tufas, with pockets, slabs, overhangs. After a hard climbing day, the cold seawater in December is very good for recovery (or so it says in the books).

There are various options for accomcdation in the area. You can choose between a house with all – bed, kitchen, bathroom, Wi-Fi, tent in a camping or just on the beach. In the village you’ll find a supermarket, with everything you need. From small shops you can find homemade wine, olive oil and olives, and the bakery offer several kinds of bread. You’ll be addicted to the local oranges and tangerines. In case you get tired of the landscape around Leonidio, a beautiful mountain road after 60 kilometers, will lead you to Kiparissi. The road is brand new and passes through the mountains, revealing beautiful sea views. Kiparissi is small, incredibly beautiful village with white houses on the beach. The routes around it are divided into several sectors. The area began to be developed in October 2016 and there are many more not found and not developed rocks. Undoubtedly, the most impressive of all is the sector Babala – quality rock with amazing steep tufas… The only problem is if you missed the training – it is better that you send the 8a’s fast. But even the routes of this sector are hard for you, you can find many other places for climbing here. Small and well done guidebook, you can download from here. The area is not as big as Leonidio, but definitely worth seeing.

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